2026 (Jan-Feb) Assemble 2

I have lots of cataloged door parts.  I simply selected and cleaned the best of everything I had for my own car.

Same with stack of rods and guides.  Picked the ones I wanted.

Have several latch systems.  The top one was just out of the solvent tank and is ready for some grease and install.

Installed new bumpers.  

Bolted to the inner door bottom.

The lock system runs on a rudimentary set of rods that pivot at the bottom of the door.

Bolted to door.  One rod goes to the lock system at the latch and the other is the actual lock knob at the top of the door (they pivot together).  

Latch system installed in doo, ready for rods to be connected.

Door handle in.  I was able to get NOS handles years ago.

Latch/lock system.  These turn and latch/lock to the strike plate on the door frame opening.

Handle. key lock, and rods all connect at this point.

Inner door release handle.

Just like other parts I have several lock sets.  Matched keys and picked the best set.

Door locks have a small rod to connect to latch mechanism (easily seen in previous photo).

Installed with new lock gaskets from Dean.

Installing window track.  System was cleaned and completely lubed for ease of operation.

Installed.

Tested all handles and locks prior to installing glass. Small adjustments can be made by simply apply small bends to adjust rod actions.

To keep the door from opening too far Nissan designed a door limiter (check strap).  It bolts from the inner door jamb and slides in and out with the doors operation. I disassembled and renewed the limiters.

With the new bumper on I simply installed with a barrel bolt available from McMaster Carr.

Starting on the vinyl.  I glued a thin batting to cover the wheel well.

Gluing door surround vinyl on.  Glued and clipped into place to dry.

I simply rubbed the vinyl over its spot and used the indentions to know where to punch holes.

Continued gluing pieces and roughed in power and speaker wires.

Testing and measuring door seal trim.  The seal has a metal "u" channel that must be notched to make turns (angle changes).

I also redid the horn relay and updated my headlight relay to drive LED headlights.

Installing heated seats so I'm hiding the wire completely.

I will be putting the seat control and amp control inside of the center console. Creating a basic bracket to hold them inside console.

I ran all amp and speaker wires under the interior and the entire harness will terminate inside of my suitcase.

Figuring out carpet install and front kick panels as I hide all audio install.

Installed door metal trim.  Also sealed door opening with plastic to help avoid moisture on the back of the door cards (avoid warping).

The red on Sora blue really pops on the door.  I'm actually glad my family convinced me to use the color.

With the restored door topper and new handles and hardware the door is as nice as it was in 1967.

With all wiring complete I put the carpet padding in.  I cut the seat rail bolt areas and will burn through the carpet for hole access once the seat is ready.

The seats were pretty worn out and sagging so I disassembled the entire seat to its smallest components.

I blasted the seat frames, painted, and installed new Pirelli rubber straps using the cleaned old hardware.

The new webbing is nice and tight and has a nice "give" to it when pressed.

The seat cushion is slightly formed with limited bolsters, but it is so compressed from age that I added 1.5 inches back to the botom to lift the cushion.  The very bottom gets burlap to keep the straps or hardware from pushing through the foam.

I removed and cleaned the wire from the old seal covers and slid them into the trim pocket.

Prior to stretching over the cushion, I glued the seat heater to the seat cover.

Stretched the cover over the restored foam pad.

The seat frame already has securing pads for the upholstery wire to stretch over.  I did end up using hog nose rings in a few areas.

Steamed the cover and really pushed the padding into the pocket for a nice firm fit.

To complete the bottom I had to stretch those two tails you see in the previous photo under and secure so the seat adjusters/lock could install.

Installed restored rails.  They actually slide back and forth smoothly.

The seat backs are way easier than the bottom.  Here I have tape over the headrest bolt threads as I sprayed glue to roll the precut while batting on.

By no means are they sport seats, but they do have a side bolster.  I added 1 inch foam on the sides and covered all of the foam with a plastic bag as I slide the vinyl over and used factory tabs and hog rings to secure.

Very happy with the results.

I mentioned prior that I had two sets of headrest and that I modified one with a slight forward tilt (I went with those). The headrest foam is a simple glue on "molded" chunk of foam.

With the foam glued on the bracket, I pulled the cover over and used the factory tabs bent over the pocket wire to stretch into place.

I glued and stretched vinyl over the headrest back cover.

With the cover stretched over I left the clips on until the piece was completely dry.

I did the same process with the back covers. Note: that is a headrest chunk of foam as discussed.

Stretched the vinyl and glued and tapped until dry.

Need to install on the back of the seats.