2006 Teardown

The 67.5  was a unique Datsun Roadster as it was the final "low windshield" model, but it was available with the 2000cc engine. The model had rare 67.5 only options.

As mentioned, I started this resto as a 1967 2000 clone as a real 67 2000 is hard to find and due to the unique pieces can be very expensive.  This is the R16 1600 motor that came in a 1967.5 1600.

The 67.5 2000 had unique items to include a 8000 rpm tach and an optimistic 160mph tach. The half year model went from chrome bezels to black. I was lucky as mine had the optional headrest.

Rust was certainly an enemy to early Japanese cars.  This starting platform has surface rust, but the floorpans are very solid.

Passenger side floorboards also in good shape.  The car is painted in Beige Grey Metalic, but the doorjambs were resprayed red for some reason.

So, since this is a 67.5 1600, I will be removing the engine.  This has sat for some time and the battery tray is filled with acorns and shells. 

Car looks to have been in a front-end accident as the hood was damaged and the lower valance is a replacement still has the Nissan red primer.

Fenders removed.

These lower rocker end caps look great.  This area is notorious for rust out as the tires throw debrise back inside this area and is prone to rust through.

Not relevant as this will be a clone, but this is a numbers matching car.

First rust through found. This is under the corner of the windshield frame. Note they hand painted this trip flat black as the vent holes are visible through the dash top.

Pulling the dash.

Dash is out.  Need to pull cables and windshield wiper motor.

Pulling engine external items.

So the fresh air vent area was packed with anything the rats could find.  This area goes out to each inner fender area as well as a fresh air vent hole for the interior.

So, to complete a frame off resto I needed to remove the tub, but I don't have lots of space, so I simply used a common wood dolly design to hold the body.

The beauty of the dolly is I can store it over the frame and roll it outside to work. 

I will probably need to door supports so the body doesn't "fold", but it's pretty lite without the doors and glass.

System as designed.  I push the body outside and have space and clearance to work.  My 1966 daily driver is jealous.

While rolling the body around it felt sketchy so I added bracing to tie everything together.  It's very solid now.

Time to start stripping the mechanicals of the car.

Pulled the engine and front end. Notice in the rear the lifted Horsehair frame pads.  These were known to hold water and would rust out the frame caps under them.

Pretty basic front-end design, but classic as well.

The ball joint boots were rotted, and these hadn't seen grease in years. The ball joint would just flop around.  The wear was so obvious.

Drivers side finishing up.

Purchased Mike Young comp springs.  will lower and stiffen up the front end.

The vin is stamped into the frame on the driver's side frame rail below the carbs.

The exhaust is run right through the x frame.  My exhaust pretzel straps had the metal sheered from the rubber isolator.

Mid-section of exhaust.  There is usually a muffler hear (under the driver's seat area and a resonator at the back).

Rear loops up and over the solid rear axle.  You can see someone installed an aftermarket can exhaust at some point. 

Final section to cut away and remove the rear shocks.

Listing the axel weight to disconncet the leaf springs.

These lower rocker end caps look great.  This area is notorious for rust out as the tires throw debrise back inside this area and is prone to rust through.