2025 (Nov-Dec) Assemble

Since I painted this myself I knew there would be orange peel, but it sure is scary sanding on a car I just did.  Depending on the area, I'm doing 1500, 2000, a 3000 trizact pad, followed by buffing.

Same process on the sides.

1st round of compound and the light reflection is getting way better as I buff out the orange peel.

As I was buffing panels I got excited and started putting pieces on so I can see what it will look like.  

I had made a drawing of how the hinges install.  I must say the bars that create the spring action where a little tough to get back in.

Everything on this car is either getting new parts or restored pieces that I did to the best of my ability.  This is the complete filler assembly and grommets installed.

Adding parts as I go. The 67.5 has a license area trim that sets off the panel recess.  

I was able to install the filler pipe allowing the gas cap to have its flap straight down...a running joke called out in the Roadster community.

The dash pads have openings and the cars color can show straight through.  I used a brushable flat black for this area and behind the front grill.  Sid stopped by and reminded me the whole front area gets the black so I painted more of the area.

Prior to installing the dash I need to put in items under it while I have the space to work.

Installed hood release and adjusted until  hood release was smooth and solid.  Early cars have a spring loaded safety release should the cable break.  Late model owners should install a back up hidden pull (I did one on my trunk).

To get the fresh air vent cable and heater cables done I need to install the console that holds them.

Jumping around just putting on what I have ready.  I wanted to get the side trim on as access to their connecting washers and nuts is limited after the interior is installed.

DatsunParts.com sells complete weather strip kits and I was able to redo both inside and outside seals. (also, note that you can see the black paint that I did under the whole front of the dash pad area)

I took my completed dash that I veneered and repainted the black portions in prep for the dash pad.

Prior to installing in the car I wanted to get the glove box and door assembled.

I lined the glove box with the same red velvet material I used inside the center console.  It cleans it up some and makes the folded cardboard just a tad tougher.

Installed my restored gauges.

I had made my own dash harness using my original and wire schematics as a guide.  Working with clean new wire and connectors made this an easier task.

I got a dash pad years ago (a 311s memebrt is actually making them again).  I had to fit in place and mark the holes for the dash twisties.  I have a full tonneau and want the black twisties on the dash.

After drilling the pad, I assembled and installed the dash.  Note: keep the glove box out while installing as you need access to the nuts to secure the twisties to the dash.

Completed the dash with the rear view mirror mount.  Moving right along.

Well I had made a rear chassis harness and a dash harness, but since I had been running the car on a temp dash (direct wiring to battery, starter, and coil), I had never built the engine bay harness. To complete the dash I need to tie into the engine bay wires.

The key to the hardness is a good crimper that makes secure connections.  I simply copied the old harness and used new correct colored wires.

The 311s Tech section has a great write up to mod the guage relay.  I did this mod as well as added a 30amp fuse to by starter harness to protect my restored amp gauge.

I also redid the horn relay and updated my headlight relay to drive LED headlights.

The blinker arm was disassembled, cleaned, wired and assembled for installation on the column.

Since I used LED on all gauges I needed to change the dimmer to an LED driver, but wanted the original knob.  A simple change out of the face allowed the old knob to fit the new dimmer.

Not much to fix on the ignition arm, but it was painted, cleaned, and the key slot lubed for use.

Fuse box in and dash, rear harness, and engine bay connected.

Back when I bought the Roasdter parts ile I got a windshiled and some wetherstripping.  I turned to DatsunParts.com for the inner and bottom weather-stripping. The low windshield is a home project as its really four sides bolted together so no real install issues.

The side pieces had a small seal holder that I removed for chrome.  I used a very shallow rivets to hold the piece.

The key was cutting the glass seal at the correct angle to match the next section.  I cut each piece and tapped into place.

With all sides aligned I tightened the screws and then secured the center bar. The blue tape is holding the bottom seal that I have glued to the frame.

I set the windshield in place and attached the two nuts on the center threaded post and placed a nail in the side holes to hold in place.

With everything aligned I used a plastic trim spoon to pull the bottom seal out and over the front lip which seated the window in its final place.  Simply install the side bolts and tighten the under dash post.

There is a small trim piece that covers the gap at the top connection points. I put some sealer in the gap and bent the trim into place.

The side seal attaches to that trim piece riveted to the windshield frame.  The back side of the same trim holds the door seal as well. Note: there is a small trim piece that secures the end of the bottom seal.  Mine were pretty beat up so I ordered a pair from Sin City Datsun.

Finishing up the windshield by installing soft top mounts and sun visors.

Started the install of the wiper arms.  The red suitcase in the photos is actually my amp.  The wiring will be hidden under the interior and the luggage straps will "hold" the system in place.

With all of the dash complete and wiring in, the car starts through the ignition system and all gauges and switches operate as they should.