2017 - U20 00589 Rebuild

So, #321 came with engine # 00589 and matched its data plate.  When I was building the clone, I didn't care about numbers or correct colors, but for this engine I will follow more correct items while building a solid running powerplant.

Rear plugs replaced.  I had the block tanked and honed. Additionally, machine work included having the crank turned, and the assembly balanced with the flywheel and clutch.

Block primed.

Again, because this is a 67 2000, I painted the block with the Nissan/Datsun blue.  Dean offers this paint formula in a spray can.  It's a blue with a slight green look.

Installing drain water drain plug.

As I mentioned the last time, I rebuilt a U20 when the Jackshaft bearings are pressed in the rear one has three places that the holes must align.  I always check as I had one block done that was misaligned.

Rear main rope seal in.

The rope seal is soaked in oil, pressed in and then I rolled into place with a large socket.  The end is then trimmed.

This was the other machine work I had outsourced.  I had the crank turned 10 under on the rod and main journals and balanced with the rotating assembly.

Installing bearings into place.  Bearings are sold STD or oversized for machining.  Since the crank is ten under these are 10 over to bring it back to correct tolerance. 

Some assembly lube and ready for crank.

Crank was wiped down for final journal cleaning and dropped in.

Slid the ring into the cylinder to measure ring gap.

Using the piston to square the ring for measurement.

I bought new flat top pistons and new H beam rods from New Datsun Parts. I sent the pistons off to Swain coating and had the domes TBC ceramic coated and the skirts were treated with PC-9.

I oiled the piston for install and the skirt coating seems pretty slick.

Rings compressed and some assembly lube to spread out on the bearing.

The New Datsun Parts rods are nice, and they save weight as well.  ARP style bolts for easy torque.

1st piston in. This is a great shot of the Swain TBC ceramic coating.

There was a pile of suspension parts.

I mentioned this in the last motor rebuild, but don't forget to pout this restrictor in so the bottom chain tensioner has oil pressure.

I put assembly lube on the jackshaft bearings and installed the unit.

The jackshaft drives the oil gear/timing gear and has a lobe to drive the manual fuel pump.

Jackshaft retaining plate on as well as the lower chain guide.

I had new Nissan chains, but I bought JT's heavy-duty chains from Datsun Restoration Products (DRP).  These chains are NICE!

I also had plenty of usable guides but since I have put so much time and money into this motor I bought a new upper guide.

All I really do is cut off the L (marked for cutting) and use a modified piece that basically sits in place and pulls out after the gear is secured to the cam.  Back in my 510 days we would just wedge the chain, so it didn't move while removing head.

RTeady to go.

Upper Chain guide on and security tabs locked in.

JT (DRP) sells an adjustable cam gear; you can see the slots in the gear.

To install the lower chain, you have to ensure the gears are aligned.

Notice with the straight edge on the gears the lower gear is back too far (you can see the light between the two).

Adding a second shim behind gear to move it forward.

Same check and no visible gap.

Because there are 4 gears and two chains there are many steps to correct install.  The best advice is getting a copy of Scott Sheeler's Roadster books as there is a step by step for chain install and checks.  Notice I put black marks on my chain. The Nissan chain has a dimple.

Chains are in and verified for correct alignment.

With the crank drift keys in place, I slid the oil slinger on.

Better look at the DRP adjustable gear.

Cleaning and polishing front cover.

#321 was really rusty.  The front cover bolts are various lengths, so I want to be able to reuse.

Soaking all of the bolts in Evapo-rust.

Made a huge difference removing the corrosion.

I built a large plating station, but didn't want to break it out for a few small bolts so I'm trying Eastwoods simple plating system.

A before and after. While nowhere near as effective as my larger plating tank, this system did just fine with only two D batteries.

A quick polish with some metal paste and they are ready to install.

With the front cover on I was able to install a new harmonic balancer (from DatsunParts.com).  If the chains and gears are correct the balancer lands at 0 to the pointer.

Checking the head gasket to ensure all passageways and holes match.

I removed the two top threaded studs from my front cover.  If you choose to use them it's almost impossible to remove the front cover without removing the head.

Final Cleaning and ready for head.

Since this motor is an important part of the heritage of a 67 2000, I decided to send the head to Rebello Racing for a rebuild and upgrade.

The work on the head was so clean and I'm anxious to see how it performs.  By the way, that's the clones U20 in the background, I fire it up every month or so.

Prepping the chain tensioner to drop it in.

Lower in, install bolts, and cut zip tie...done.

I sent Rebello a non-smog head and a B cam. Their work included new oversized valves and new seats/guides and a 63DE grind. With the new pistons and performance head I should get a solid performing engine.

Oil pump cleanup for install.

When dropping the oil drive gear in place it does a slight twist as it engages.  The goal is to end up with the dizzy drive side landing at the 11:25 position.

This is the difference of 1 tooth difference when engaging the gear.

To lock the drive gear in place I installed the Dizzy tower. 

Oil Filter Mount cleaned up.

Installed on motor.  I will add the anti-drain back tube later.

Installed a new water pump.

Pass side motor mount on.  

Drivers side motor mount has a different angle.

The Clone car has a Gary Boone EI Dizzy.  This unit is built by East Coast Dizzy's who took over the GB process.

The dizzy tower has some adjustment built in from Advance to Retard clearly marked.

Another check that I'm set up correctly. Dropping the Dizzy in to engage the oil drive gear with the engine at TDC notice that the dizzy pointer is directly in the middle when installed correctly.

Installing the Rockers as marked for each cylinder.

Setting the lash per the Rebello notes.

Rebello measurements on each lobe.

Closing up all openings until UI get to the next stage on the motor.