This will be my second 5 speed, so I feel a little better as I have done this all before.
Main Shaft.
If you look at the previous 5 Speed build you will see the brass synchro's and, in this box, you can see the Porsche style steel synchro's.
The roll pins need to be tapped out to remove shift forks.
When you pull the checking plugs there are two steel balls in each slot (don't lose them).
Slow and steady.
Two of the synchro rings were worn.
I bought a welded 5th gear and was lucky to be able to buy two new Synchronizers that will be used in this box.
I had mentioned that you will need a quality set of heavy-duty pliers for the snap rings.
One of the really worn synchronizers.
The two inner band brakes are what ride inside the synchromesh ring.
The gears have a thrust block and small anchor blocks.
With the snap ring off you can see how the brake bands sit inside of the synchromesh ring.
Pressing out the old bearings.
With new bearings, seals, gaskets, and a few synchro's, its time to put it all together.
I bought all new bearings from Dean, and he sells these needle bearings as well.
Pressing on new bearings.
The center plate bolts are a cross Phillips type that are HARD to remove (dimpled in to secure them), these replacements have a much better design.
New Bearings from Dean.
This nut gets a high torque (122-144 ft-lb) and has a lock plate to avoid backing off. My Borg Warner rebuild used a double nut to lock in place. II will put a weld at the nut junction for safety's sake.
The speedo gear has a small bearing to keep it in place between two C Clips. A small dab of grease holds in place until the gear covers it.
Will remove seals and grommets, clean, and then reassemble.
There are a few sizes available for this ring to ensure the proper spacing between the two carriers.
Rear extension going on. The eight bolts get a 15.91 ft lb. torque.
New clutch fork grommet comes with Deans rebuild kit.
Original throw-out bearing.
DRPs larger pressure plate (matched to my alum flywheel) requires a different size bearing so I pressed the old one off.
Pressed the new one on the carrier.
Greased and installed the new TO Bearing on the carrier's tube.
Ready to pair with motor.
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